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The Rose Nocturne

Pink Princess Philodendron

Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’

Indoor care for Pink Princess Philodendron, from light and watering to propagation and safety.

Explore the care guide
Botanical illustration

Care at a glance

Know your plant

Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’ is a cultivated selection. NC State and NParks associate it with P. erubescens, while RHS uses the genus and cultivar name. [12][5][6]

Pink Princess is a climbing plant with reddish young stems and dark leaves bearing pink variegation. [12]

Light and placement

Place in bright, indirect light; filter strong direct sun. [12]

Reassess the actual window each season, including buildings, blinds and trees. A grow light can supplement an inadequate site. Lower-light tolerance does not mean a plant can live indefinitely in a windowless dark room. [24]

Wipe dust gently with a damp cloth while supporting the leaf. Inspect both leaf surfaces and stem joints at the same time. [15][25]

When light strengthens, check for hotter sun on the leaves and faster drying. Adjust gradually; abruptly moving a shade-acclimated plant into strong sun can scorch it. [21]

Watering

Let the upper mix dry before watering, then soak the mix and drain. NParks describes checking about 5 cm (2 in) down; interpret that depth in relation to pot size and moisture deeper in the root zone. [11][6]

  1. Check the mix with a finger and lift the pot before reaching for the watering can. Compare with the weight after the previous watering. [22]

  2. In a deep pot, check below the dry surface with a wooden probe. If deeper mix is still damp, do not assume the whole root zone is dry. [23]

  3. Water the mix slowly and evenly until excess emerges from the drainage holes. Let it finish draining, then empty the saucer or decorative cover pot. [22]

  4. If water immediately runs down the sides of a shrunken, very dry rootball, apply it in several passes to re-wet the mix; do not leave the pot permanently soaking. [23]

A moisture check can recur on your calendar; watering itself should follow the plant’s trigger. Changes in light, pot size and mix change the interval. [22]

Soil and pot choice

Choose loose, freely draining houseplant mix in a draining pot. There is no single compulsory recipe. [12]

A draining nursery pot inside a decorative outer container is practical: remove it for watering and return it only after excess has drained. [20]

Choose a container that comfortably fits the roots. A much larger pot leaves a greater volume of wet mix around a small root system. [10]

Use fresh, clean potting mix rather than outdoor garden soil. Keep the drainage holes clear; a bottom layer of gravel does not replace drainage. [25][20]

Temperature and humidity

For P. erubescens, NC State recommends a warm room at 65–85°F (18–29°C), with protection from draughts. [5]

Philodendrons welcome moderately humid air and can adapt to normal household humidity. [3]

Measure humidity before trying to raise it. Ordinary room air can be suitable; misting changes humidity only briefly and is not a substitute for appropriate watering or healthy roots. [15][11][13]

Check the conditions beside the plant, not only the room thermostat. Cold glass, an opening door or hot vent can create a harsher microclimate than the room average. [15]

Feeding

  1. Choose a fertilizer labeled for the type of houseplant and use its directions. Check whether the new potting mix already includes fertilizer before adding another product. [15][20]

  2. Feed during observable active growth. Reduce or pause feeding when low light slows growth. Increasing concentration is not a treatment for poor roots, cold stress or faded variegation. [15]

  3. Salt residue and browning warrant a review of fertilizer dose and drainage. Avoid stacking several feeds or treating every pale leaf as a deficiency. [22][26]

Repotting

  1. First inspect: check whether roots densely fill the container and whether the mix is compacted or the plant dries unusually quickly. A root at one hole is a cue to inspect, not an automatic demand for a large new pot. [17]

  2. Prepare the suitable mix, a clean draining pot only modestly larger, and a tray or covered work surface. Use the same pot size if the remaining healthy root system does not need extra space. [20]

  3. Slide out the rootball gently, supporting the plant at its base. Loosen tightly circling outer roots without tearing the whole root system apart. Inspect discolored or soft roots before replanting. [17][19]

  4. Set the plant at its previous depth. Fill around the roots and firm gently, leaving room below the pot rim for watering. Do not bury the crown or pile mix against leaf bases. [17][20]

  5. After repotting, keep the plant in its suitable light and warmth. Check moisture anew; a fresh mix and different container can dry at a different rate. Watch continuing wilt or rapid leaf decline rather than assuming every symptom is harmless transplant shock. [22][19]

Propagation

Start with healthy material, clean containers and sharp, clean tools. Use an airy rooting medium and bright indirect light; enclosed cuttings need ventilation. [16]

  1. Choose a healthy stem section with at least one leaf and one viable node. Cut with clean tools, then root the node in water or an airy propagation mix. If using a humidity cover, ventilate it and check moisture. Pot when roots are established rather than on a promised deadline. [6][16]

  2. Water-rooted cuttings can be moved to potting mix once rooted. The transition changes the root environment, so watch moisture and wilting closely while the cutting establishes. Rooting speed varies with conditions. [16]

A temporary propagation cover reduces water loss from an unrooted cutting. Ventilate it and keep it out of hot sun; this does not imply that an established plant needs a closed humid cabinet. [16][4]

Pruning and variegation

Support the climbing stem and use light pruning above a node to shape or encourage branching. NParks describes pruning above a variegated leaf to assist balance; treat that as a possible management technique, never a guarantee of pink regrowth. [6]

Color patterns can vary between leaves. Greener shoots can outgrow variegated shoots; pale sectors contain less chlorophyll. This is a general variegation principle, not proof that every named cultivar behaves identically. [14]

Judge health by the whole plant and new growth. A single greener or paler leaf does not establish reversion, and changing light does not guarantee a chosen pattern on future leaves. [9][14]

Problems and next checks

Monitor for spider mites, mealybugs, aphids and scale. Wet roots can rot; leaf-spot problems also occur. Avoid routinely wetting foliage when watering. [5]

Photograph the whole plant and close-ups, and note recent changes in watering, light, fertilizer and temperature. Compare new growth and the rate of spread rather than diagnosing from one yellow leaf. [19]

Wilting or yellowing

Possible causes
  • Dry rootball
  • Persistently wet mix and root damage
  • Other stress
Checks to distinguish them
  • Feel below the surface and compare pot weight.
  • Check trapped water and drainage.
  • If decline persists, inspect whether roots are firm or dark and soft.
Low-risk next step
If genuinely dry, water and drain; if wet, stop adding water and correct trapped water or poor drainage.
When to seek expert help
Progressive collapse, extensive soft roots or decline despite corrected conditions.
Sources for these checks

Check the mix with a finger and lift the pot before reaching for the watering can. Compare with the weight after the previous watering. [22]

In a deep pot, check below the dry surface with a wooden probe. If deeper mix is still damp, do not assume the whole root zone is dry. [23]

Yellowing or wilting can follow either drought or excessive moisture. Before adding water, check the mix, drainage, light and roots. Persistently wet mix with dark, soft roots points toward root damage; firm, light-colored roots are healthier. [19]

Excess moisture limits root oxygen, so a wet plant can wilt as if thirsty. Empty trapped water and correct drainage rather than repeatedly watering a wilted plant. [23]

If roots are dark and soft or decline continues after basic care corrections, seek a plant diagnostic service or local Extension advice. Do not expect a fertilizer to restore rotten roots. [19]

Pale patches turning brown after a light change

Possible causes
  • Scorch from stronger sun
  • Other leaf injury
Checks to distinguish them
  • Compare the affected side with the sun-facing side.
  • Check whether the damage appeared after moving the plant.
Low-risk next step
Move out of harsh exposure; reintroduce stronger light gradually and watch new growth.
When to seek expert help
Spots spread despite stable conditions, or appear with wet lesions or stem damage.
Sources for these checks

Pale, bleached patches that later turn brittle after stronger sun may be scorch. Move out of harsh exposure and adjust light gradually; a leaf symptom alone does not establish its cause. [21]

When light strengthens, check for hotter sun on the leaves and faster drying. Adjust gradually; abruptly moving a shade-acclimated plant into strong sun can scorch it. [21]

Photograph the whole plant and close-ups, and note recent changes in watering, light, fertilizer and temperature. Compare new growth and the rate of spread rather than diagnosing from one yellow leaf. [19]

Cottony deposits, bumps, webbing or sticky leaves

Possible causes
  • Mealybugs
  • Scale insects
  • Mites or other pests
Checks to distinguish them
  • Inspect undersides, axils and pot crevices with magnification.
  • Determine whether the marks are insects or damaged plant tissue.
Low-risk next step
Separate from other plants, document the pest and gently remove accessible pests while seeking identification.
When to seek expert help
Identification is uncertain, damage spreads, or repeated cleaning does not control the infestation.
Sources for these checks

Inspect leaf undersides, crevices and pot rims for insects, cottony deposits, webbing or sticky residue. If pests are found, separate the plant from the collection while identifying the problem. [25]

Small, accessible infestations may be reduced by gentle wiping or rinsing. Keep removed material away from other plants. If pests recur or are hard to identify, ask local Extension for an identification before selecting treatment. [25]

Avoid homemade detergent sprays and automatic pesticide mixtures. If a pesticide is needed, it must be labeled for the pest, plant and indoor use; follow its precautions. [25]

Slow growth or long, weak new growth

Possible causes
  • Insufficient light
  • Seasonal slowdown
  • Root or temperature stress
Checks to distinguish them
  • Compare the current light and new growth with earlier conditions.
  • Check the root-zone moisture and nearby drafts.
Low-risk next step
Improve the suitable light position gradually; keep watering and fertilizer proportional to actual growth.
When to seek expert help
The plant deteriorates rather than merely growing slowly, especially with root or stem damage.
Sources for these checks

Reassess the actual window each season, including buildings, blinds and trees. A grow light can supplement an inadequate site. Lower-light tolerance does not mean a plant can live indefinitely in a windowless dark room. [24]

Check the conditions beside the plant, not only the room thermostat. Cold glass, an opening door or hot vent can create a harsher microclimate than the room average. [15]

As available light and growth decrease, reassess drying speed and feeding. A plant under strong grow lights may continue growing even when an untreated windowsill plant slows. [18][24]

Feed during observable active growth. Reduce or pause feeding when low light slows growth. Increasing concentration is not a treatment for poor roots, cold stress or faded variegation. [15]

If roots are dark and soft or decline continues after basic care corrections, seek a plant diagnostic service or local Extension advice. Do not expect a fertilizer to restore rotten roots. [19]

New leaves look greener or differently patterned

Possible causes
  • Normal leaf-to-leaf variation
  • Inadequate light
  • A reverted shoot in a variegated plant
Checks to distinguish them
  • Compare several new leaves on the same shoot.
  • Review light, drainage and the overall plant condition.
Low-risk next step
Provide appropriate light and root care; do not force stronger sun or fertilizer to chase a pattern.
When to seek expert help
Cultivar identity is uncertain, or color change accompanies declining growth and root damage.
Sources for these checks

Color patterns can vary between leaves. Greener shoots can outgrow variegated shoots; pale sectors contain less chlorophyll. This is a general variegation principle, not proof that every named cultivar behaves identically. [14]

If variegation fades, review light and drainage and check whether an entire shoot has reverted. Focus on healthy new growth when adjusting care. [9]

Judge health by the whole plant and new growth. A single greener or paler leaf does not establish reversion, and changing light does not guarantee a chosen pattern on future leaves. [9][14]

Seasonal indoor care

As available light and growth decrease, reassess drying speed and feeding. A plant under strong grow lights may continue growing even when an untreated windowsill plant slows. [18][24]

When light strengthens, check for hotter sun on the leaves and faster drying. Adjust gradually; abruptly moving a shade-acclimated plant into strong sun can scorch it. [21]

Before moving an outdoor-summering plant back among indoor plants, inspect for pests. Keep an infested plant separate and resolve the infestation before rejoining the collection. [25]

Children and pets

Safety

Keep away from pets and children; wear gloves when cutting and avoid sap contact with eyes. “Low severity” database labels do not mean edible or pet-safe. [12]

Philodendron calcium-oxalate crystals can irritate mouth, skin and eyes. For human exposure, contact Poison Control; severe swelling or breathing/swallowing difficulty needs emergency care. US Poison Control: 1-800-222-1222; use local poison services elsewhere. Animal exposure requires a veterinarian. [7]

Keep the plant, fallen leaves and cuttings away from children who may chew them. For a suspected human exposure in the U.S., contact Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 or poison.org; outside the U.S., use the local poison service. [8]

For suspected pet ingestion, contact a veterinarian or ASPCA Poison Control at 888-426-4435 in the U.S.; a consultation fee may apply. Keep the plant name and photographs available. [2][1]

For an exposure, contact the appropriate poison service or veterinarian for advice specific to the person or pet.

Similar plants

Pink Princess has pink variegation; White Princess has white variegation. Their general care overlaps, while cultivar identities remain distinct. [5]

Sources

  1. ASPCA: Golden pothos

    ASPCA

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  2. ASPCA: Snake plant

    ASPCA

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  3. Growing Philodendrons at Home

    Iowa State University Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Updated: 2025-01 reviewed

  4. Iowa State Extension: How to Propagate Houseplants by Stem Tip Cuttings

    Iowa State University Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2025-01 reviewed · Updated: 2025-01 reviewed

  5. NC State Extension: Philodendron erubescens

    NC State Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  6. Singapore National Parks Board: Philodendron Pink Princess

    Singapore National Parks Board

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2021-10-26 species record · Updated: 2021-10-26 species record

  7. Poison Control: Dieffenbachia and Philodendron

    National Capital Poison Center

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  8. Poisonous and non-poisonous plants: An illustrated list

    National Capital Poison Center

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  9. RHS: Leaf damage on houseplants

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  10. Overpotting

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  11. RHS: How to grow philodendrons

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  12. RHS: Philodendron Pink Princess (v)

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  13. RHS: How to grow epipremnum

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  14. RHS: Reversion

    Royal Horticultural Society

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  15. Illinois Extension: Houseplant care

    University of Illinois Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  16. Propagation: Houseplants

    University of Illinois Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  17. Illinois Extension: Repotting

    University of Illinois Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  18. Illinois Extension: Houseplants, winter watering, and humidity

    University of Illinois Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2022-02-07 · Updated: 2022-02-07

  19. University of Maryland Extension: Diagnose indoor plant problems

    University of Maryland Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2025-02-05 · Updated: 2025-02-05

  20. University of Maryland Extension: Potting and repotting indoor plants

    University of Maryland Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2023-03-10 · Updated: 2023-03-10

  21. University of Maryland Extension: Excess light on indoor plants

    University of Maryland Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2023-03-13 · Updated: 2023-03-13

  22. University of Maryland Extension: Watering indoor plants

    University of Maryland Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2023-03-10 · Updated: 2023-03-10

  23. University of Maryland Extension: Overwatered indoor plants

    University of Maryland Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2023-03-13 · Updated: 2023-03-13

  24. University of Minnesota Extension: Lighting for indoor plants and starting seeds

    University of Minnesota Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  25. Managing insects on indoor plants

    University of Minnesota Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026

  26. UW-Madison Extension: Pothos, Epipremmum aureum

    University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension

    Accessed October 3, 2026 · Publisher date: 2025 revision · Updated: 2025 revision